Balkan countries of Albania and Montenegro are somewhat overlooked. It may be partly because of bloody and wild past and partly because these are overshadowed by its neighbours. The truth is, at least in terms of mountains, one can find the most rugged and wild peaks of Balkans on common border between these two countries, particularly in Accursed mountains. I was surprised by this wild rocky scenery as well as karst areas and blooming meadows.
Buni i Jezerces
The shores of the highest lake in the lake basin of Buni i Jezerces are covered with rich stands of wild onion. This is the first time I have come across it in such abundance. When the evening sun shines through the clouds to the top of Maja e Kokërhanes, it adds great lighting conditions to an already fantastic scene. Albania.
Accursed mountains
In the middle of a huge rock amphitheatre in the middle of the Accursed Mountains, there are unique views in all directions. In the morning, the most eye-catching one is towards the Maja Kakiš rock tower and the slowly drying lake below. A place in the middle of the mountains, but off the main trails, where few people still go. Albania.
Trinača
The rising sun's rays illuminate the rocky slopes of the Čvršnica mountains across one of the deepest valleys in Europe. It is here that the Grabovica River flows into the larger Neretva. The rocky profile of the mountains is reflected in the jagged rocks in the foreground. The view from the top of Trinača towards the neighbouring Prenj mountains (left). Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Theth
A magical morning in the village of Theth in the middle of the Accursed Mountains. It takes a while for the sun's rays to spill over the high surrounding ridges, but once it hits the lonely stone church, the scene is almost perfect. No other buildings interrupt the view of the mountains and the church acts as their only counterbalance. Albania.
Maja e Vajushës
My favourite place in the Balkans has to be the lookout hill on the border of Albania and Montenegro. It is from here that you can see views of the unexpectedly dramatic Karanfili rock face, which is already on the Montenegrin side. Albania / Montenegro.
Čvršnica
The Čvršnica mountain range consists of rather rounded but largely rocky ridges. When the evening sun illuminates them from the side and the haze accentuates the distances between them, conditions invite to capture distant details. In particular, the yellow-tinged pine shrubs looks magical. Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Hajdučka vrata
A rock window in the middle of the Čvršnica Mountains, named after the Hajduks - the brigands who rebelled against the Ottoman rule. Supposedly, passing through the window gave them resistance against gunshot wounds. Today, the window is a rewarding motif for photography. Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Blooming ridge
The western, milder part of the Accursed Mountains can be very pleasant in the evening sun. The green hillsides are in bloom in the summer with many colourful herbs, but it is still the large white daisies that stand out the most. The view from Talijanka towards Veliki Trojan. Albania / Montenegro.
Titov Vrh
Sleeping on top of the Plat allows you to be in a good place not only in the evening, but also early in the morning. The sun shines onto the highest parts of the Shar Planina, the slopes of the highest Titov Vrh. The morning chill is quickly disappearing and it is clear that the climb up, which first includes a descent into the valley, will not be easy.
Ridges od Shar Planina
The main ridge of Shar Planina on the border with Kosovo is nicely illuminated by the orange morning sun. But the most interesting is the nearby ridge. Larger or smaller white rocks grow from its grassy slopes. Northern Macedonia.
Sredni Kamen
View towards the jagged and rocky peak of Sredni Kamen from Plat. It is after rain, so visibility is not impaired by haze. Yet the low light creates a dreamy atmosphere. Moreover, the rock in the foreground, the counterpart of the opposite peak, is beautifully illuminated from the side. Norhern Macedonia.
From Zla Kolata
Hike to the summit of Zla Kolata is definitely not one of the easiest. Limited water resources, high elevation gain and lengthy rocky passages on the Montenegrin side pose a challenge. All the more surprising is the Albanian side, which falls into the Valbonë valley with gentle flowering meadows. This outlook needs to be earned, but the reward is worth all the effort. Especially in the late evening light, when the peak is already abandoned. Albanie / Montenegro.
Accursed mountains
Whenever I think of the name of the local mountains, all I have to do is return to the view from Zla Kolata over the Valbonë valley. White, sharp and mostly completely arid peaks represent at least an obstacle. It is not difficult to imagine how much suffering may have arisen here, hence the name "Accursed". In the last rays, however, the vertical walls seem almost magically beautiful. Albania.
Albanian Alps
The highest peak of Montenegro, Zla Kolata, offers also views of neighboring Albania. It is in this direction, between the peaks of Maja e Jezercës and Maja e Rosit, where I find a detail that fascinates me and I keep returning to it during the evening. Individual layers of jagged mountains arranged exactly one behind the other, gradually fading into the distance. The best moment occurs just before the sunset itself, when the sky turns orange and interesting as well. Albania.
Cloudy sea
I return back below the summit of Talijanka like the evening before. Conditions have changed completely and perhaps could not be better. A sea of clouds floats in the valley while the highest peaks rise above it like surreal islands. I wait for the first sunrays to illuminate the grassy slopes of Talijanka in contrast with the still cold tones of clouds. Albania / Montenegro.
Talijanka
In the evening, the clouds completely disappear and the panorama of the Karanfili peaks is illuminated by golden light. The road from Talijanka further to Valušnice curves along a narrow grassy ridge. I find the best composition just below the summit, where the path seems to lead to the most distinctive peak of Veliki Vrh. Albania / Montenegro.
Karanfili
The morning at the summit of Talijanka prepares the best possible surprise. As soon as I look out of the tent, I can see a landscape rising from the cloudy sea floating perhaps only a hundred meters below. In soft light with the sun still below the horizon the jagged peaks of Karanfili rise above the clouds. They seem even higher and more menacing in these conditions. Montenegro.
Rays over Surdup mountains
There is a perfect circular view from the summit of Talijanka. I like the opposite rocky ridges of the Accursed Mountains the most, but when the sun sets lower, I also notice the scene above the distant Surdup Mountains. For a short time, everything is there in just the right amount, clouds, light and especially sunrays bending over the edge of the mountains. Albania.
Rainbow over Accursed mountains
When we pitch a tent a second time one day prematurely due to the storm coming, there is nothing more than hope that we will can the sun in the evening again. Eventually, the storm disappears after an hour and a half, leaving behind water-saturated colors and a rainbow arching in the distance over the Karanfili ridge. The valley below the peaks Talijanka and Popadija. Montenegro.
In the clouds
The evening after the storm turns into an amazing show. At the very end of the day, the light acquires a pinkish tint and the landscape immerses itself in cooler tones. The rocky peaks of the Accursed Mountains continue to rise from the fast moving clouds. Albánie / Montenegro.
Karanfili tearing clouds apart
After almost four hours of waiting in the tent for the worst storm to pass, a gift arrives. The distant Karanfili mountain range is tearing clouds apart. The distinctive peak of Veliki Vrh also appears above all the others. When late evening light touches the dramatic clouds, I am ready to capture the scene. Albania / Montenegro.
Pine woods
Storm and emergency bivouac. Rain and fog. Waiting for the evening with which change comes. The fog rises and the clouds tear, the water-saturated mountains catch the soft light of setting sun. I search for an interesting composition to the northwest and find a group of these old pines. Montenegro.
Oko Skakavice
In the deep woods of Ropojana valley, river Skakavica emerges in large karst spring called Oko Skakavice (Grasshopper's Eye). Its blueish water may invite for a swim but its temperature keeps just a few degrees above zero. I was glad skies were cloudy during my visit, as it eliminates reflections. I also tried to add some part of the surrounding forest to the image. Montenegro.